Shoe construction



Nov. l, 1932.

P. GILBERT 1,885,598

SHOE "CONSTRUCTION Filed April 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet l Nov; 1, 1982. P, BERT 1,885,598

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed April 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet*K 2 y @1f/fwn@ Nov. l, 1932. A p GlLBERT 1,885,598

SHOE CONSTRUCTION O Filed April 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Nov. 1, 1932. A. p @LEER-r 1,885,598

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed April 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Nov. l, 1932 ,UNITED STATES PATENT oFElcE ALBERT P. GILBERT, F THIENSVILLE, WISCONSIN, ASSIGNOR .T0 THE GILBERT SHOE C0., OF THIENSVILLE, WISCONSIN I SHOE CONSTRUCTION Application led April 18,

This inventionv pertains to a shoe construction embodying a one-piece rear quarter, and the method of manufacturing the same.

`Heretofore many attempts have been made 51 to construct a shoe of the foregoing character.

However, in this numerous diiiiculties have been encountered, both in the finished product and the process of manufacture. Therefore` shoes of this type have never'prov'en to be popular or practical.

For instance, an inherent diiiiculty encountered in manufacture has been the inability to take care of excess materialwhich accumulates below the heel seat in the lasting operation. This problem doesnot exist in two piece tquarters, seamed at the rear, inasmuch as the samecan be shaped to eliminate excess material.

Further, in attempting to provide a onepiece quarter, so shaped as to eliminate eX- cess material below the heel seat, it was found that the top of the quarter could not be retrac-ted or shaped to properly engage the ankle.

Various objections have resulted, all of which the present invention aims to overcome by the provision of a shoe having a one-piece.

quarter, so formed with relation to the lining as to avoid bunching of material below the heel seat, and provide a snug fit of the uppe surrounding the ankle.

Incidental to the foregoing, a more speciiic object is to provide a tackless shoe, in which the upper, including a one-piece rear quarter, is stitched to the insole around its entire peripheral edge, including the heel seat,

y thus eliminating .the usual-tacks at the heel seat.

A further object resides in an improved method of manufacture, particularly with reference to forming the rear quarter, "and the lasting and inseaming of'the. same.

A still further object in connection with the foregoing resides in the novel manner of forming and assembling the heel counter.

' lVit-h the above and other objects in view, which will appear as the description proceeds, the invention resides in the novel construction, combination and arrangement of parts,

substantially as hereinafter described, and- 1932. Serial No. 605,908.

more particularly defined by the appended claims, it being understood that such changes in the precise embodiment of the herein disclosed invention may be made as come within the scope of the claims.

In the accompanying drawings is illustrat# ed one complete example of the physical embodiment of the present invention constructed according to the best mode so far -devised for the practical application of the principles thereof. y

Figure 1 `illustrates the blank comprising a one-piece rear quarter constructed in accordance with the'present invention.

Y Figure 2 illustrates the lining blank, with thequarter indicated thereon in dotted lines to illustrate the difference in contour.

:sisv

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the quarter and lining assembled.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary elevation of an ,the rear quarter.

Figures 9 and l10 illustrate the application of a work strip to the outer quarter blank to facilitate subsequent lasting of the same.

l Figure 11 is a fragmentary side elevation of the outer quarter folded upon itself, and with the work strip stitched thereto, and

Figure 'l2 is a fragmentary side elevation illustrating the quarter and work strip after lasting'.

Referring now more particularly to the aolcompanying drawings, the present invention follows to a certain extent conventional shoe structure, in that the rear quarter A is secured to a vamp B in the usual manner, as best shown in Figure 4, the primary distinction residin yin the fact that the rear quarter is formed rom a single blank of material,y

illustration of the invention pertains to a blucher type shoe. However, the invention is'applicable to Avarious other styles, as the same resides primarily in forming the rear quarter from a single blank of material eliminating the rear seam.

V In the construction of the shoe,`the rear portion of the upper follows conventional design, in that a quarter lining 5, preferably formed from a soft, pliable blank of leather,

is also provided. Furthermore, the usual heel counter 6 is employed between the quarter 1 and the lining 5. In addition to the foregoing, an intermediate strip 7 is positioned between the quarter and lining, the strip 7 being formed from soft cushioning material, preferably double-nap flannel, or similar fabric.

It is the common practice, in Goodyear welt shoes, to inseam the upper and welt to the insole from the heel forward, while the upper at the heel is turned under and tacked, the tacks, which project throu h the insole, being turned yover and covered y a suitable heel pad or lining. In 'the present structure, tacks are entirely eliminated, and the rear p11arter, as well as the vamp, are secured to t e inner sole 8 by shown in Figure 7.

From the foregoing explanation it will be readily seen that an exceedingly inexpensive,

durable and neat appearing shoe structure has been provided, which not only eliminates all of the objections to conventional seamed quarters, but materially improves the appear- .ance of the shoe.

Other advantages will be quite obvious, in that a shoe constructed with a quarter, as heretofore described, adds materially to the comfortof the wearer, and entirely eliminates the possibilities of' tearing or ripping, which occurs where stitched rear quarters are employed. Also, a material saving on hosiery results, as there are no seams at the heel, where the greatest wear usually takes place, to rub the hose at that point.l Furthermore, the elimination of the back-seam enables the leather to be drawn closely to the last, resulting in a snugger t of the heel, as no seam occurs to space the quarter from the foot.

As heretofore explained, considerable dificulty has been encountered in the process inseam stitching 9, as besty of manufacture of a shoe having a one-piece rear quarter, due to the fact that it has been practically impossible to properly shape the quarter for snug engagement withthe foot, 4and at the same time eliminate excessive lbunching and accumulation of material at the heel seat. Therefore, one of the important features of the present invention resides in the highly novel method of assembling the parts 'comprising the rear quarter of the upper.

lConsidering the method of manufacture, as exemplified in the successive figures of the drawings, it will be noted, as best shown in Figures 1 and 2, that the shape of the quarter 1, and the quarter line 5, differ slightly, par- 'ticularly with reference to the connecting edges, the lower edge l0 of the quarter being more arcuate in contour than the lower edge `11 ofthe quarter lining. Therefore, in stitching the edges 10 and 11 together,'aswell as the edges of the lace tabs 3 and 7 it is necessary for the operator to aline the edges of the quarter and blank at a starting point, and thereafter crowd the material to aline the connecting edges of both blanks as the same are secured together with the stitching 12, to produce a completed quarter, as illustrated in Figure 3. -l

Due` to the crowding of'the quarter blank during the stitching operation, and the fact that the quarter blank is more arcuate in contour than the quarter lining, the quarter will have a tendency to bulge outwardly, as shown in Figure 3. The quarter and lining are then secured to the vamp B by stitching around the arcute edges 13 of both the quarter and quarter lining, as illustrated-in Figure 4, the vamp being disposed between the quarter and quarter lining. Here it will be readily un-v derstood that the intermediate padding strip 7 is secured to the inner face of the quarter prior to the stitching of the quarter and linlng, .the intermediate strip conforming in shape to the quarter. A heel counter 6 is then positioned between the lining andvrear quarter, as best shown in Figure 7, the counter being formed of relatively stii' leather, composition,.or the like, ,and having its upper and lower edges tapered ofi' to provide relatively thin edges, thus providing an extremely rigid counter, and a-t'the same time eliminating an abruptridge in the finished shoe at the top edge of the counter.

. Contrary to the usual practice, a flat counter is employed, the same being mulled prior to lasting, which results in the counter snu ly conforming to the shape of the last as t e same dries out. If desired, the relatively thin lower edge of the counter may be slashed at spaced intervals to eliminate puckers, as the same is drawn over the heel seat.

The thin lower edge of the counter permits the same tobe more easily Worked in the lasting and inseaming operations.

After the upper has been assembled in the foregoing manner, the same is then lasted over the last L the insole 8 having been preby the stitches 9. The wire 15 is then removed, and the projecting puckered edges of the upper are then trimmed off in the usual manner, after which a filler is applied to the insole, and an outsole 18 is stitched to the welt, it being understood that the Goodyear welt extends around the entire periphery of the shoe, including the heel seat.

By the foregoing process it is possible to entirely eliminate lasting tacks commonly used in shoes. In all other construction it is necessary to temporarily tack the back of the quarters to the last when assembling the upper to the sole. By the present method, the quarter lining, which is of light pliable leather, is sprung over the last as the quarter is drawn over the heel seat, the quarter, counter and lining then being securely retained by the wire 15, thus eliminating the necessity of tacking the quarter, which is objectionable because of the unsightly tack-holes resulting in the finished product, and providing a decided improvement in the appearance of the shoe.

While the foregoing method is exclusively employed in the majority of instances. some diticulty has been experienced in Working or lasting seamless quarters formed from various leathers which are exceedingly stil-l", as, for instance, patent leather, and therefore to facili-l tate the lasting operation in such cases, and at the same time insure smooth, unwrinkled en gagement of the quarter around the heel seat,

it is contemplated to utilize a work strip 17', as illustrated in Figures 9 to 12, inclusive.

- As will be noted in Figure 9, the lower edge of the quarter 1 is inclined upwardly -from a medial point, while the work strip 17 is normally straight. However, in stitching the work strip to the quarter, as illustrated in Figure 10, the same is crowded to follow the contour of the edge of the quarter, which causes it to assume a slightly arcuate concave sh ape that is partially imposed upon the lower edge of the quarter. Thus it may. well be said that the work strip, due to springing the same during attachment of the quart-er, will start the deside shaping of the lower edge of the quarter over the heel seat of the last, in addi- .tion to providing added material to assist in the lasting operation. In practice,l it has been found that the foregoing structure readily enables the operator to smoothly last the quarter in the usual manner, regardless of the stiffness or characteristics of the leather employed, eliminating the necessity of working lout creases or wrinkles that might otherwise occur.

The remaining operations in completing the shoe are similar to those heretofore described. it being obvious that the work strip is trimmed oli' with the remaining excess material, subsequent to inseaming the welt and quarter to the insole.

While the drawings and description are directed to a truly seamless one-piece quarter, it is to be fully understood that the same is intended to include any structure of quarter -in which the seam at the rear is eliminated.

For instance, some Oxfords may have foxing stitched to the rear quarter for the purpose of ornamentation. Other structures may be provided with straps extending around the quarter and stitched thereto. However` in all such structures the back seam is eliminated and the principles of the present invention are applied, particularly as regards the difference in configuration between the ultimate outer quarter and thequarter lining, and in the method of lasting and linishingof the shoe. Therefore, in referring to a onepiece or seamless rear quarter, it is to be fully understood that the same relates to,/and includes, backs o1 any shape or design, in which the usual rear seam is eliminated.l

From the foregoing explanation, it will be readily appreciated that a highly improved shoe structure and method of manufacture has been devised, which not only adds materially to the neatness and attractiveness in the appearance of the shoe, and its durability, but also results in added comfort to the wearer, as there are no objectionable seams a t the .heel to rub or damage tender feet, or cause undue wear on hosiery. The difference in contour and the spring of the quarter and quarter lining to space the same, as illustrated in Figure 4,-compensate for insertion of the counter, and subsequent shaping of the quar- 'ter on the last, thus resulting in a snug, comfortable tit of the quarter surroundingLthe ankle, as illustrated in Figure 8, which prevents slipping at the heel, with resultant dis-v comfort to the wearer.

I claim 1. In a shoe upper assembly, a seamless rear quarter comprising a one-piece outer quarter and a one-piece quarter lining` said outer quarter and quarter lining being of different blank configurations When in flat form with the upper edge of the outer quarter formed in a greater curvature than the lining, and stitches securing the qua-rter and lining together along their upper edges whereby to cause their lower edges to flare apart for reception of a heel counter and to cause the quarter lining lto snugly and smoothly hug greater curvature than lthe lining, and

stitches securing the outer quarter and lining together along their upper edges whereby to cause their lower edges to flare apart for reception of a heel counter and to cause the quarter lining to snugly and smoothly hug the last and the outer quarter to smoothly shape itself around the heel and under the heel seat, an insole, and a Goodyear welt, said rear quarter and welt being stitched to said insole around the heel seat.

3. In a shoe upper assembly, a seamless rear quarter comprising a one-piece outer quarter and a one-piece quarter lining, said outer quarter and quarter lining being of dili'erent blank configurations when in flat form with the upper edge of the outer quarter formed on a greater curvature than` the lining, and stitches securing the outer quarter and-'lining together along their upper edges whereby to cause their lower edges to flare, a normally flatheel counter positioned between said outer quarter and quarter lining, an intermediate strip of soft fabric conforming in contour to the outer quarter and secured between the said outer quarter and quarter lining, whereby the quarter lining snugly engages the last, and the outer quarter smoothly shapes itself around the heel and under the heel seat.

4. In a -welt shoe, a seamless rear quarter comprising a one-piece outer quarter and a one-piece quarter lining, said outer quarter and quarter lining being of different blank configurations when in flat form with the upper edge of the outer quarter formed on a greater curvature than the lining, and stitches securing the outer quarter and lining together along their upper edges whereby to cause their lower edges to be normally spaced apart, a normally flat heel counter positioned between said-outer quarter and quarter lining, an intermediate strip of soft fabric con, forming in contour to the outer quarter and secured between said quarter and quarter lining, an insole, and a welt strip, said rear quarter, heel counter and welt being stitched to said insole around the heel seat.

5. The method of constructing a seamless rear quarter for shoes comprising forming'an outer quarter and quarter lining from single blanks of different configurations with the upper edge of lthe quarter having a greater curvature than the upper edge of the lining,

Y and stitching the blanks together at their upper edges and simultaneously crowding the material to aline said edges to create a flare between the lower edges of said blanks.

6. The'method of constructing a seamless rear quarter for shoes comprising forming an outer quarter and uarter lining from blanks of different con gurations with the upper edge of the outer quarter formed on a greater curvature than the upper edge of the lining, stitching a work strip to the lower edge of the outer quarter and simultaneously crowding or bending the work strip to give the same a slightly concave arcuate shape, and stitching the blanks together' at their upper edges and simultaneously crowding the material to aline said edges to create a flare between the lower edges of said blanks.

7. The method of constructing a seamless rear quarter for shoes comprising forming an-outer quarter and quarter lining from blanks of dilferent igurations with the upper edge of the outer quarter formed on a greater curvature than the quarter lining, stitching a straight work strip to the lower edge of the outer quarter and simultaneously curving the work strip to give the same a slightly concave arcuate shape, and stitching the blanks together at their upper edges and simultaneously crowding the material to aline said edges to create a flare between the lower edges of the blanks.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand at Thiensville, in the county of Ozaukee and State of Wiscon- ALBERT P. GILBERT. 

